
Let's play a word association game. When I say, "Coffee house, Red, Light and Legal" what do you think? Yay, you win! Amsterdam has become the haven for bachelor parties, college pilgrimages, youthful self-discoveries and anything else that generally isn't allowed elsewhere. However, the city is so much more than its reputation. Beautiful canals, gorgeous architecture and a community of friendly, open-minded people await those willing to travel beyond the confinements of reputation. As a large city, it's easily accessible by both rail and plane. Try cheaptickets.com or kayak.com when flying from outside of Europe. From inside, I find Ryan Air consistently has the cheapest prices.
There is a myriad of free and low-cost things to do in Amsterdam. Where to start? So, yes, the Red Light district is pretty cool, especially if you’re a small town girl like me. During the day, you can wander for hours checking out the specialized shops, reading with a sense of awe the advertisements for tonight's shows, and generally witnessing the effects of a counter-culture in broad daylight. Make sure to check out the bronze relief in the cobblestones outside of the Oude Kerk (a beautiful old church). It's of a chained hand grasping a breast. It appeared one morning and no one knows who the artist is. Also, keep an eye out for strange metal shields guarding the corners of many buildings. These are called urine shields, I’ll let you fill in the blank there. At night, be sure to travel with at least one friend, especially if you’re female. Many patrons of the district tend to assume any single woman is for sale. Bear in mind that taking pictures of the workers is illegal and all it will get you is a smashed camera. Don't forget your ID. This may sound obvious, but yours truly was sitting in a coffee shop actually drinking coffee for lack of a certain paper that was back at my hostel. On a side note, contrary to popular opinion, cannabis is actually illegal in Amsterdam; the city just has a non-enforcement policy, so be respectful.
But sooner or later you will tire of this world and need to venture beyond. When you emerge, blinking into the bright light of the rest of the city, you will find a glorious place. Grab a map from the train station and wander down the canals, through the residential streets, basking in the beauty of the city. Check out the open-air flea market in Waterlooplein square, sit in the Dam Square and watch the life of the city pass or take in the sights and smells of the Bloemenmarkt, the world’s only floating flower market. Everywhere you turn, there are buildings too beautiful to contemplate. You will never get bored wandering the streets of Amsterdam.
If you want a more structured look at the city, ask at your hostel about the Sandemans New Europe walking tour. It is a tip-based tour of the city, so at the end of the tour you give as much as you can/feel the guide deserves. If you can gather together the 15 dollar entrance fee for the Anne Frank House, you must get there early! I didn't have the money, but when I walked by the line was three blocks long.
There are many, many, many hostels in Amsterdam, and being but one person I could only stay in one. However, no matter where you go, if the city you are in has a St. Christopher's, stay in it!!! I'm normally not one for chains but I've stayed in this hostel in Amsterdam, Berlin, London and Bath and always had a great time. Each one has a bar in the bottom. If you stay often enough, you get discounts on your Beds. Best of all, their free breakfast includes hardboiled eggs and deli meat. If you want to, you could feed yourself completely with just the free breakfasts.
However, if you'd like a little more variety than stale sandwiches, there are a selection of grocery stores throughout the city through which you can feed yourself very inexpensively. Also, if you are in town on a Saturday, get to the Farmer's market on Noordermarkt. There you can find organic vegetables, cheeses and breads, among other things. As you wander farther into the residential districts you will find adorable delicatessens that sell amazing sandwiches for just a few Euro’s each. In the Red Light district, you can find your typical "fair food": pizza, fries, and ice cream amongst other things, all for minimal prices. This is a good time to give you a tip. Eating while traveling can become a very unhealthy affair. Vegetables are hard to get, often expensive and don't keep well. I like to stock up on single-serve vegetable supplement packets before leaving home. Get them at your local health food store. They travel well, dissolve in a few ounces of water, and keep your diet from being entirely made up of sugar and grease.
So, go to Amsterdam for the reputation and experience the wonder of a truly beautiful, open and lovely city.


