Saturday, September 19, 2009

Almless in Amsterdam


Let's play a word association game. When I say, "Coffee house, Red, Light and Legal" what do you think? Yay, you win! Amsterdam has become the haven for bachelor parties, college pilgrimages, youthful self-discoveries and anything else that generally isn't allowed elsewhere. However, the city is so much more than its reputation. Beautiful canals, gorgeous architecture and a community of friendly, open-minded people await those willing to travel beyond the confinements of reputation. As a large city, it's easily accessible by both rail and plane. Try cheaptickets.com or kayak.com when flying from outside of Europe. From inside, I find Ryan Air consistently has the cheapest prices.
There is a myriad of free and low-cost things to do in Amsterdam. Where to start? So, yes, the Red Light district is pretty cool, especially if you’re a small town girl like me. During the day, you can wander for hours checking out the specialized shops, reading with a sense of awe the advertisements for tonight's shows, and generally witnessing the effects of a counter-culture in broad daylight. Make sure to check out the bronze relief in the cobblestones outside of the Oude Kerk (a beautiful old church). It's of a chained hand grasping a breast. It appeared one morning and no one knows who the artist is. Also, keep an eye out for strange metal shields guarding the corners of many buildings. These are called urine shields, I’ll let you fill in the blank there. At night, be sure to travel with at least one friend, especially if you’re female. Many patrons of the district tend to assume any single woman is for sale. Bear in mind that taking pictures of the workers is illegal and all it will get you is a smashed camera. Don't forget your ID. This may sound obvious, but yours truly was sitting in a coffee shop actually drinking coffee for lack of a certain paper that was back at my hostel. On a side note, contrary to popular opinion, cannabis is actually illegal in Amsterdam; the city just has a non-enforcement policy, so be respectful.

But sooner or later you will tire of this world and need to venture beyond. When you emerge, blinking into the bright light of the rest of the city, you will find a glorious place. Grab a map from the train station and wander down the canals, through the residential streets, basking in the beauty of the city. Check out the open-air flea market in Waterlooplein square, sit in the Dam Square and watch the life of the city pass or take in the sights and smells of the Bloemenmarkt, the world’s only floating flower market. Everywhere you turn, there are buildings too beautiful to contemplate. You will never get bored wandering the streets of Amsterdam.
If you want a more structured look at the city, ask at your hostel about the Sandemans New Europe walking tour. It is a tip-based tour of the city, so at the end of the tour you give as much as you can/feel the guide deserves. If you can gather together the 15 dollar entrance fee for the Anne Frank House, you must get there early! I didn't have the money, but when I walked by the line was three blocks long.
There are many, many, many hostels in Amsterdam, and being but one person I could only stay in one. However, no matter where you go, if the city you are in has a St. Christopher's, stay in it!!! I'm normally not one for chains but I've stayed in this hostel in Amsterdam, Berlin, London and Bath and always had a great time. Each one has a bar in the bottom. If you stay often enough, you get discounts on your Beds. Best of all, their free breakfast includes hardboiled eggs and deli meat. If you want to, you could feed yourself completely with just the free breakfasts.
However, if you'd like a little more variety than stale sandwiches, there are a selection of grocery stores throughout the city through which you can feed yourself very inexpensively. Also, if you are in town on a Saturday, get to the Farmer's market on Noordermarkt. There you can find organic vegetables, cheeses and breads, among other things. As you wander farther into the residential districts you will find adorable delicatessens that sell amazing sandwiches for just a few Euro’s each. In the Red Light district, you can find your typical "fair food": pizza, fries, and ice cream amongst other things, all for minimal prices. This is a good time to give you a tip. Eating while traveling can become a very unhealthy affair. Vegetables are hard to get, often expensive and don't keep well. I like to stock up on single-serve vegetable supplement packets before leaving home. Get them at your local health food store. They travel well, dissolve in a few ounces of water, and keep your diet from being entirely made up of sugar and grease.
So, go to Amsterdam for the reputation and experience the wonder of a truly beautiful, open and lovely city.

Monday, September 14, 2009

Cheap in Conwy


When it comes to breathtaking vistas, sweeping views of the country side, adorable shops, and beautiful ruins, you can't do much better then the town of Conwy, Wales. Conwy is a town many are not familiar with, however, if you get the chance, you absolutely must visit this doll of a place. It's one of the best walled villages in the UK and is filled with the kind of quaint charm that you are hard pressed to find elsewhere. It's a little out of the way if you're not already in the UK, but make it part of your tour by checking out nationalrail.co.uk and taking the train. From London fares can run as cheap as 9.50 pounds (about 18 dollars).
Just across the street from the YHA hostel is the beginning of a foot path that will take you up in to the Welsh hills of Snowdonia. Never before have I seen such amazing views. You can see for miles around, out to the sea and back to the town. But the best part is what you may stumble across while hiking up there: herds of semi-wild horses roam the hills from April to October. As I rounded just one more stunning vista, I came face to face with about 20 shaggy ponies. For just a moment we stood there, looking into each others eyes, each of us stunned to run across the other. Then, with a whoosh of breath, they took off thundering down the hillside. I will never forget that moment. If you do encounter these horses, make sure not to approach them as they are still wild animals.

After exploring the hills, I recommend taking another day to walk along the city wall, stroll by the sea and wander among the small stone buildings that make up the town. All for as little as the air you breath. Conwy also has the smallest house in Great Britain, which is an attraction unto itself. The castle is interesting, but can be skipped if you don't have the 9 dollar entrance fee.
The YHA hostel on the hill is the only cheap place to stay in Conwy. Its simplistic decor and rather ugly structure make it seem rather imposing, but the beds are soft, the showers clean and it provides a Full English breakfast for about four dollars. Head west on Rosemery Lane from the train station, take a right onto Upper Gate and follow the signs up the hill for the Hostel. Make sure to book in advance (use Hostelworld.com) as it fills up fast. Beds in the four bed gendered dorms start at about 17 dollars a night.
If you only take one word of advice from me let it be this, "pastys." Pastys are the world greatest invention. Meat, potatoes and vegetables all wrapped up in a flaky pastry crust, for less then an over-whipped mocha in the States. In Wales they are called Hoggies, and despite the ability of that name to draw to mind undesirable globules, Hoggies are a most pleasurable staple for a broke traveler. On High Street there are two bakeries that supply these most scrumptious treats. Pair it with a can of Fanta, and you have lunch for around 3 dollars. If your really broke, half a Hoggie can suffice for a small lunch two days running. For a bit more money, the Fisherman's Cafe on Castle street at the East Wall will give you a fabulous fish and chip dinner. Also on High street is Spar, a small grocer where you can get lunch meats and other necessities. The YHA has a refrigerator and a full kitchen that you can use, so make your own dinner for less then you would back home.
If your travels take you to this end of the world, make Conwy a weekend rest spot. You can rejuvenate your soul and give your wallet a break.

Thursday, September 3, 2009

Greatings Fellow Traveler

I'm broke.
I mean really broke. Easy mac three times a week kind of broke. But traveling is in my blood, I yearn for it the way I yearn for chocolate, and neither is any less essential to my life then air or water. So, what's a girl to do? Find a way to travel without money. It's something, if I may say so, that I'm rather good at. And as my friends are sick to death of me chatting mercilessly about my adventures, I've chosen to subject you all to it.
So, here we go.
I know what you're going to say, flights are expensive. And they are. But if you're flexible and willing to do a bit of searching, you can find affordable tickets. Check out kayak.com, or cheaptickets.com and the more flexible your days are the easier it is to find affordable flights. Flying on a Wednesday instead of a Sunday can save you 200 hundred or more. Also make sure you look around at other airports, often flying into a airport a few miles away can mean serious savings. If you can, just scan for tickets when you have a little time off. A friend of mine picked up a round-trip flight to Greece for 300 dollars simply because the airline was having a sale.
So, decide you can travel and just go!